Core aeration is the only thing that relieves compaction without tearing the lawn out to do it. Tillage works and a full renovation works, and both kill the grass on the way through. So when soil is genuinely compacted, cores are the right tool, and I am not going to join the crowd claiming aeration does nothing for compaction. That is wrong in the other direction.
The two honest limits are density and duration. Research counts cores per square foot, not passes. K-State puts effective cultivation at 15 to 30 cores per square foot, and one pass with a commercial spoon aerator delivers roughly half of that or less. Two to three passes is what moves a bulk density number at all. The frequency work bears it out: going from one aeration event a year to three cut bulk density 5 to 9 percent and surface hardness 5 to 19 percent. Real, modest, and it takes repetition. I put the core-density research here if you want the studies themselves.
Duration is where our clay gets a vote. The holes close in weeks, not seasons. The clay swells back into its own shape and you are roughly where you started.
Then there is the part specific to this town. Most of what gets called compaction in Spring Hill was never compacted. It is builder ground: topsoil hauled off, subsoil bladed level, gravel spread for erosion control and never removed. That soil is tight because of what it is made of, not because something pressed down on it, and no aerator converts gravel and subsoil into topsoil. Genuinely destructive compaction is uncommon in a lawn. Nature works against it constantly through root channels, soil biology, and the freeze and thaw a Zone 6b to 7a winter hands us. When it is real, a person caused it by walking or driving the same ground over and over.